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14
AUG

Surfing the fear

Imagine starting down a 20 foot wave, imagine catching that wave and riding! Now, imagine falling off and been catapulted into the path of one of the most powerful natural forces. For big wave surfers this is an everyday reality. They risk everything to get that brief moment of perfection as they hang on a knife edge away from disaster.

 

 

Maya Gabeira is a big wave surfer, a big wave surfer that has seen her life flash before her eyes, a big wave surfer that in 2011 at Teahupoo, Tahiti came close to death. The clip is a testament to her strength of will to not give up, but to get back on her board and continue her pursuit of that perfect moment.

Big wave surfers are Nuts but the strength of Maya’s will is something to be truly inspired by. Maya gets a Guts in my book, but I am glad I get to stay on the beach with a cocktail as she does her thing.

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06:35